Why Recall Falls Apart

You call your dog’s name at the park, and they freeze for a second.

Then… they take off in the opposite direction.

It’s not like you haven’t practiced. Recall was one of the first things you taught, and it worked great when they were younger.

But now, at ten months old, your teenage dog seems to have selective hearing.

It feels personal, like they’re blowing you off on purpose.

But what’s really happening is far less dramatic—their world just got a whole lot bigger.

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Why Recall Breaks Down During Adolescence

Recall relies heavily on two things—engagement and impulse control.

When your dog was a puppy, coming back to you was easy. The bond was strong, and the distractions weren’t nearly as interesting as you.

Now, as a teenager, your dog is:

Developing independence.

More interested in their environment.

Experiencing hormonal changes that fuel exploration.

Suddenly, the squirrel, dog, or smell down the path feels more rewarding than your call.

This isn’t about testing you—it’s about learning what’s worth their attention.

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The Dopamine Dilemma

Every time your dog chases something, dopamine—the reward chemical—floods their brain.

It’s powerful, reinforcing that running toward the fun thing feels good.

Now, when you call them, their brain weighs two options:

Come back for a treat.

Keep running and experience that dopamine hit.

At this stage, the chase often wins.

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How to Rebuild Recall Without Frustration

Recall isn’t broken. It just needs to be retrained in a way that competes with the world.

Here’s how to approach it:

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1. Practice in Controlled Environments

Go back to the basics—but this time, with a twist.

Use a long line in a wide, open area and call your dog while gently reeling them in.

When they reach you, reward heavily. Make coming back feel like a party.

The key? Set them up to succeed, not to fail.

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2. Recall Means Jackpot

Forget tiny treats. When your dog returns, make it worth it.

Use high-value food, toys, or play to override the appeal of distractions.

If recall is the gateway to their favorite things, they’ll start choosing it more often.

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3. Stop Calling From Chaos

If your dog is mid-sprint or locked onto something exciting, don’t call them.

In those moments, the environment is too stimulating for them to respond.

Instead, practice recall when they’re less engaged. Build success during calm moments first.

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4. Reward the Check-Ins

Reinforce the small stuff. If your dog looks back at you during a walk or veers toward you on their own, reward it.

Unprompted engagement is recall in disguise.

Over time, they’ll start choosing to return without needing to hear their name.

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Building a Habit, Not a Cue

Recall isn’t just about teaching your dog to respond to a word.

It’s about making you more interesting than the environment.

When that bond feels rewarding, recall becomes a natural behavior—not something they have to think about.

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Progress Takes Time (And That’s Okay)

Adolescent recall is messy, and that’s normal.

Some days, your dog will come flying back without hesitation. Other days, they won’t.

That fluctuation isn’t failure—it’s proof they’re still learning.

When you embrace recall as an evolving skill, you stop chasing perfection and start building something better—reliable trust.

How to Handle Leash Pulling Without a Constant Tug-of-War

You clip the leash on, step outside, and before you’ve even locked the door, your dog is already pulling.

By the time you hit the sidewalk, you’re leaning back just to keep them from dragging you down the street.

Loose leash walking used to be solid. But now, it feels like every walk is a workout—and not in the good way.

You’re not alone.

Leash pulling is one of the most common issues with adolescent dogs. But the reason it happens isn’t what most people think.

It’s not about dominance or “showing who’s boss.”

Your dog isn’t trying to lead—they’re just moving faster than their ability to self-regulate.

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Why Leash Pulling Returns During Adolescence

Walking politely on a leash requires a lot of impulse control.

As puppies, dogs are more naturally focused on their handler. But as they enter adolescence, curiosity about the world—and the desire to explore it—takes center stage.

Here’s what’s driving the behavior:

Increased confidence – They now feel bold enough to investigate everything.

Hormonal shifts – Heightened energy and drive fuel their desire to move.

Lack of impulse control – They see something exciting, and instead of slowing down, they dive straight in.

At this stage, movement itself becomes reinforcing.

Every step forward—even if they’re pulling—feeds the part of their brain that says, this works.

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Why Corrections Aren’t the Answer

It’s tempting to correct pulling by yanking the leash or using tools designed to stop it immediately.

But here’s the catch—dogs aren’t learning why pulling doesn’t work.

They’re just learning to avoid discomfort temporarily.

The pulling often returns because the root issue—impulse regulation—was never addressed.

Dogs don’t need to be forced into compliance. They need to learn how to manage their own excitement.

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Teaching Leash Skills Through Focus, Not Force

Loose leash walking is about helping your dog stay engaged without micromanaging every step.

Here’s how to build it:

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1. Reward Every Check-In

Your dog’s natural tendency is to look forward, not at you.

That’s normal. But if they glance back at you—even for a second—reward it immediately.

Those micro-moments of connection are what eventually become consistent engagement.

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2. Use the “Reset” Rule

If the leash goes tight, stop moving.

Wait for slack (even a tiny bit), then mark and step forward.

The message is simple—pulling doesn’t move you forward, but calmness does.

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3. Let Them Sniff—But On Your Terms

Sniffing is important. It’s how dogs experience the world.

But allowing it without structure often leads to more pulling.

Instead, choose when and where to allow sniffing breaks.

Use a cue like “go sniff” to release them. When sniff time ends, return to focused walking.

This balances freedom with structure.

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4. Break the Walk into Phases

Not every part of the walk has to be rigid.

Start with a few minutes of structured leash walking.

Follow it with a sniff break or free movement.

Return to structure before heading home.

Alternating between focus and freedom helps your dog mentally reset, preventing over-arousal.

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The Mental Side of Leash Pulling

Here’s the piece most people miss—leash pulling isn’t just physical.

It’s often a sign that your dog is overstimulated, anxious, or simply doesn’t know how to self-regulate in new environments.

Teaching leash skills is less about mechanics and more about building confidence and calmness.

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What to Expect as You Rebuild

Adolescent leash walking isn’t linear.

Some days, your dog will stay right by your side. Other days, every leaf and squirrel will feel like a personal challenge.

That’s normal.

What matters most is consistency over time.

Each walk is an opportunity to practice—not perfect—the skill.

And as your dog matures, leash pulling naturally softens because they’ve learned how to exist calmly in the world.

Not through force.

But through patience and partnership.